C’est le surf qui m’a appris à ne pas
lutter contre la force de la nature. Quelle que soit la violence des vagues
qu’on doit affronter.

“Sono uno di quelli che per capire le cose ha assolutamente bisogno di scriverle.”

“Maybe it’s just hiding somewhere. Or gone on a trip andforgotten to come home. …”

“Me, I've seen 45 years, and I've only figured out one thing. That's this: if a …”

“Between the end of that strange summer and the approach of winter, my life went…”