Oi!’
I drop in on him the first chance I get.
Round three. There’s one coming on the inside and I start paddling for it. He starts for it too, telling me, ‘It’s mine, sunshine.’
‘Get stuffed.’
As I feel the surge take my board, he grins across at me. ‘Split it?’
So we split the peak, he goes left and I go right, and I know, like me, he’s thinking, How good is this?

Autore: Kirsty Eagar