The mere mention of the Farakka Express, which jerks its way eastward each day from Delhi to Calcutta, is enough to throw even a seasoned traveller into fits of apoplexy. At a desert encampment on Namibia's Skeleton Coast, a hard-bitten adventurer had downed a peg of local fire-water then told me the tale. Farakka was a ghost train, he said, haunted by ghouls, Thuggees, and thieves. Only a passenger with a death wish would go anywhere near it.
Tahir ShahTags: travel ghosts india delhi calcutta farakka-express
Calcutta's the only city I know where you are actively encouraged to stop strangers at random for a quick chat.
Tahir ShahOnce in a very long time you come across a book that is far, far more than the ink, the glue and the paper, a book that seeps into your blood.
With such a book the impact isn't necessarily obvious at first...but the more you read it and re-read it, and live with it, and travel with it, the more it speaks to you, and the more you realize that you cannot live without that book. It's then that the wisdom hidden inside, the seed, is passed on.
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The idea of my heart dancing with delight was far too good to pass up.
Tahir ShahTags: travel
For me, a journey to Damascus is an amazing hunt from beginning to end, a slice through layers of history in search of treasure.
Tahir ShahTags: history journey travel damascus
A little imagination goes a long way in Fes.
Tahir ShahMove to a new country and you quickly see that visiting a place as a tourist, and actually moving there for good, are two very different things.
Tahir ShahOne senses that, in these conditions, no amount of wet-wiping could bring true hygiene.
Tahir ShahThat's because true travel, the kind with no predetermined end, is one of the most selfish endeavors we can possibly undertake-an act in which we focus solely on our own fulfillment, with little regard to those we leave behind. After all, we're the ones venturing out into the big crazy world, filling up journals, growing like weeds. And we have the gall to think they're just sitting at home, soaking in security and stability.
It is only when we reopen these wrapped and ribboned boxes, upon our triumphant return home, that we discover nothing is the way we had left it before.
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As a travel writer I've specialized in gritty, fearful destinations, the kind of places that make a reader's hair stick on end.
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